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自己背起的任務

抵達達沃

這是我抵達達沃的第四天，行筆的此時，正好前一天（6/12）是菲律賓獨立121週年的紀念日。

雖然是國慶。但在距離首都一千公里外的達沃市，其實沒有想像中的熱鬧

雖然是國慶。但在距離首都一千公里外的達沃市，其實沒有想像中的熱鬧。

我來到的這所東南亞基督教學院（CCSA），是一間包含從幼稚園到大學的一所私立僑校。這所僑校原本的大學部位在市中心，近年才遷回到中小學部的旁邊。中小學部位在當地一個叫做MA-A的地方，屬於達沃市這邊的郊區，是一個鄰近只有農田和類似農地工廠的地方。面對的大馬路，應該是達沃市的外環道，只有豔陽、柏油與不時呼嘯而過的大型巴士、沿路招呼的吉普尼與摩托載客車。

東南亞基督教學院

東南亞基督教學院

東南亞基督教學院（教師宿舍與大學教室共構）

東南亞基督教學院（教師宿舍與大學教室共構）

這裡的校舍非常簡單，尤其是大學部的校舍是一個有點像是組合屋的空間。甚至不是全都有空調、也沒有投影的地方。一張黑板、有點克難卻整齊的桌椅，據說今年九月將擴建新的校舍。但我遇見的L主任笑笑跟我說，到底何時會開工，不太確定啦。如果要有的話，現在就應該開始整頓土地了嘛。

大學部的教室（如同臨時組合屋）

大學部的教室（如同臨時組合屋）

至於學校為什麼經濟狀況那麼差，最大的原因是因為這裡幾乎是免學費在經營。不過，L主任表示，菲律賓與台灣最大的不同，在於國立的大學反而比較差、私立的才是好的學校。昨天，我們就分別曾到國立菲律賓東南大學、私立雅典奧大學（Pamantasang Ateneo de Davao）參觀過，真的差距極大。前者號稱菲律賓第一國立大學在達沃市的分校，校舍的簡陋情形真的令人驚訝。

自己背起的任務：對於僑民的觀察

再說說對於僑校的觀察，其實似乎都是當地華僑、或具有華人認同的商紳捐獻、著手營運，不管招不招得到學生，一定要有中文課。就我們這梯的役男服勤的僑校來說，德榮、東南亞基督教學院都是如此。

東南亞這裡的僑民比較特別，基本上他們的認同是廣義的中國。無論是「自由的中國」、或者是「共產的中國」。華人的膚色、臉孔、語言、文字、生活模式與傳統價值，就是他們認同的事情。印象深刻的是，有一天德榮學校的梁校董帶著我們去品嚐當地甜品「HaloHalo」的時候，她居然唱出了《梅花》、《中華民國頌》這類的歌曲。她還悄悄跟我們說，她的ipod裡面都裝著小鄧（鄧麗君）的歌曲。所以即便是這些經營者只會講福建話（Hokkien），他們還是要安排以普通話（Mandarin）教學的華語課程給學生。

雖然現在的年輕人聽了可能會覺得無感、甚至有點滑稽——但即便對我作為一個認同台灣建國的人來說，不知為何居然有點感動，但更多的是一種心酸。其實啊，這些人就是所謂「中華民國」的遺民。

是幸或也不幸，1990年代以後，台灣民主的腳步、發展變動太快，卻在政黨相互傾軋下，未能將社會經濟的結構同時穩定下來。事實上，背後的原因就是新自由主義經濟、裙帶資本主義所造成的分配不均。以致於民主自由的價值、甚至是台灣的價值，無法被僑民所廣泛接受。如今中國更是以經濟領政，幾乎將控制菲律賓當局的經濟命脈（基礎設施、各種工業商品傾銷）。這些經營者也無法否認，在菲律賓從商，受到中國的影響相當大：「人家一條手機線兩塊人民幣可以拉到這裡、衛生紙可以一包四毛人民幣拉到這裡⋯你能不跟他們做生意嗎？我自己就跟他們合股。」

正如L主任跟我說的：「現在台灣好像一隻老鼠，總是問這個活動老共有沒有參加？但又不敢正面迎戰，不知道自己是誰。是台灣呢？還是民主中國呢？你總是要給我們一個答案。外交上總是比較好做事。現在的台灣，與我1990年代第一次去台灣的狀態完全不一樣。」

到底是「華僑」？還是「台僑」？該如何面對中國崛起之後的僑民認同？這是未來自由台灣在處理東南亞僑務上無法迴避的問題。事實上，在僑委會的這段期間，我並不認為，所謂「中華民國」、「中華文化」與「台灣」並不一定是會互斥的概念。只是在過去，中華民國的這襲袈裟完全包覆了台灣，使得台灣在冷戰結構下，籠罩著麥卡錫主義的單調、國家暴力與限制，這是我們反對的部分。如今台灣已經逐漸成長茁壯，是該將這件袈裟，收好放進自身的包袱中了——但無論眷戀、或者是唾棄，我們都需接受它成了某一程度的過去與現實，我們必須背著這樣的歷史持續前行。

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臺南人，熱愛研究城市的凡人。 國立成功大學中文系、都市計畫系。 國立臺灣大學建築與城鄉研究所畢業。

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  739. miz
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