自己背起的任務

抵達達沃

這是我抵達達沃的第四天,行筆的此時,正好前一天(6/12)是菲律賓獨立121週年的紀念日。

雖然是國慶。但在距離首都一千公里外的達沃市,其實沒有想像中的熱鬧

雖然是國慶。但在距離首都一千公里外的達沃市,其實沒有想像中的熱鬧。

我來到的這所東南亞基督教學院(CCSA),是一間包含從幼稚園到大學的一所私立僑校。這所僑校原本的大學部位在市中心,近年才遷回到中小學部的旁邊。中小學部位在當地一個叫做MA-A的地方,屬於達沃市這邊的郊區,是一個鄰近只有農田和類似農地工廠的地方。面對的大馬路,應該是達沃市的外環道,只有豔陽、柏油與不時呼嘯而過的大型巴士、沿路招呼的吉普尼與摩托載客車。

東南亞基督教學院

東南亞基督教學院

東南亞基督教學院(教師宿舍與大學教室共構)

東南亞基督教學院(教師宿舍與大學教室共構)

這裡的校舍非常簡單,尤其是大學部的校舍是一個有點像是組合屋的空間。甚至不是全都有空調、也沒有投影的地方。一張黑板、有點克難卻整齊的桌椅,據說今年九月將擴建新的校舍。但我遇見的L主任笑笑跟我說,到底何時會開工,不太確定啦。如果要有的話,現在就應該開始整頓土地了嘛。

大學部的教室(如同臨時組合屋)

大學部的教室(如同臨時組合屋)

至於學校為什麼經濟狀況那麼差,最大的原因是因為這裡幾乎是免學費在經營。不過,L主任表示,菲律賓與台灣最大的不同,在於國立的大學反而比較差、私立的才是好的學校。昨天,我們就分別曾到國立菲律賓東南大學、私立雅典奧大學(Pamantasang Ateneo de Davao)參觀過,真的差距極大。前者號稱菲律賓第一國立大學在達沃市的分校,校舍的簡陋情形真的令人驚訝。

自己背起的任務:對於僑民的觀察

再說說對於僑校的觀察,其實似乎都是當地華僑、或具有華人認同的商紳捐獻、著手營運,不管招不招得到學生,一定要有中文課。就我們這梯的役男服勤的僑校來說,德榮、東南亞基督教學院都是如此。

東南亞這裡的僑民比較特別,基本上他們的認同是廣義的中國。無論是「自由的中國」、或者是「共產的中國」。華人的膚色、臉孔、語言、文字、生活模式與傳統價值,就是他們認同的事情。印象深刻的是,有一天德榮學校的梁校董帶著我們去品嚐當地甜品「HaloHalo」的時候,她居然唱出了《梅花》、《中華民國頌》這類的歌曲。她還悄悄跟我們說,她的ipod裡面都裝著小鄧(鄧麗君)的歌曲。所以即便是這些經營者只會講福建話(Hokkien),他們還是要安排以普通話(Mandarin)教學的華語課程給學生。

雖然現在的年輕人聽了可能會覺得無感、甚至有點滑稽——但即便對我作為一個認同台灣建國的人來說,不知為何居然有點感動,但更多的是一種心酸。其實啊,這些人就是所謂「中華民國」的遺民。

是幸或也不幸,1990年代以後,台灣民主的腳步、發展變動太快,卻在政黨相互傾軋下,未能將社會經濟的結構同時穩定下來。事實上,背後的原因就是新自由主義經濟、裙帶資本主義所造成的分配不均。以致於民主自由的價值、甚至是台灣的價值,無法被僑民所廣泛接受。如今中國更是以經濟領政,幾乎將控制菲律賓當局的經濟命脈(基礎設施、各種工業商品傾銷)。這些經營者也無法否認,在菲律賓從商,受到中國的影響相當大:「人家一條手機線兩塊人民幣可以拉到這裡、衛生紙可以一包四毛人民幣拉到這裡⋯你能不跟他們做生意嗎?我自己就跟他們合股。

正如L主任跟我說的:「現在台灣好像一隻老鼠,總是問這個活動老共有沒有參加?但又不敢正面迎戰,不知道自己是誰。是台灣呢?還是民主中國呢?你總是要給我們一個答案。外交上總是比較好做事。現在的台灣,與我1990年代第一次去台灣的狀態完全不一樣。

到底是「華僑」?還是「台僑」?該如何面對中國崛起之後的僑民認同?這是未來自由台灣在處理東南亞僑務上無法迴避的問題。事實上,在僑委會的這段期間,我並不認為,所謂「中華民國」、「中華文化」與「台灣」並不一定是會互斥的概念。只是在過去,中華民國的這襲袈裟完全包覆了台灣,使得台灣在冷戰結構下,籠罩著麥卡錫主義的單調、國家暴力與限制,這是我們反對的部分。如今台灣已經逐漸成長茁壯,是該將這件袈裟,收好放進自身的包袱中了——但無論眷戀、或者是唾棄,我們都需接受它成了某一程度的過去與現實,我們必須背著這樣的歷史持續前行。

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